Disillusionment in Travels

topic posted Sun, January 6, 2008 - 7:21 AM by 
I think I want to begin writing articles on the reality of dive locations as they are, as opposed to what the magazines show. I am so sick of reading about places and then finding out I once again fell pray to false advertising. I really need to wizen-up. So, here's my assessment of my most recent diving:

Key Largo and Pompano -- my advice, ALWAYS dive with shears or a good sharp knife as the amount of fishing line and hooks tangled up in the reef is exasperating. (I know better than to cut line that has much growth on it but I do cut it if it's just algae and not going to harm anything by removing it) In addition, diving with some sort of big net is not a bad idea either, in order to catch fish to remove hooks and lines entangled in their gills or hanging from their mouths. I saw a 4' long barracuda with a hook in its gills and about 5' of line hanging from it. Got close but not close enough to do anything. I hear the hooks eventually dissolve? Even so...

What else about Florida? True I saw some cool animals, rays, nurse sharks, an octopus during the day, goliath groupers, file fish, squid, loads of wonderful awe-inspiring creatures, but...everyone there wears gloves and therefore touches everything. If it were up to me, as in Bonaire, dive gloves would not be allowed. No gloves and people touch less. There is so little living reef left there. Lots of wrecks which is nice if that's your thing but even on the wrecks the growth is minimal and what there is is handled constantly by fisher-folk, spear-gun people and divers.

But it is really the fishing line that bummed me out. It is everywhere. The fishing line and dying reef. It looks nothing like the photos.

Southeast Asia this past summer: I learned that I will never again travel outside the US without a painless way to euthanize cats and dogs. I especially found this to be true in Malaysia where I honestly would have put about 25 dogs and cats to sleep if I could have. I also learned that "unlimited shore diving" means something in a place like Bonaire or Monterey, but in Malaysia it means swimming in human waste for the first 5 meters of shore as there is no sewage treatment -- you flush and hear it go straight into the water underneath the toilet...lovely. All those lovely photos of Sipidan and Mabul Islands? Well, yes, I saw amazing things, some of the most incredible and humbling creatures whose presence I have ever been graced with and yet what the magazines do not show is that for every crocodile fish I saw, I also saw a large piece of plastic or other human garbage floating by. They don't show that everything outside the resort is covered with candy wrappers, plastic bags, human waste, starving animals, starving people. I have never seen so much garbage in my life as I did on Mabul Island, especially in the first 10 feet of the beach and shoreline.

And of the Philippines I could write more about dynamite fishing and how it feels to hear it underwater knowing it's just about a kilometer away and how the reef in some places looks like the aftermath of the bomb on Nagasaki and Hiroshima.

And it makes me so sad because there is little I love more than scuba diving. I find it to be the place where I feel most alive and calm. It is the purest form of meditation for me. And yet I feel so saddened by what I have seen in my travels.

As a traveler I cannot just walk by something and not feel deeply about what I have seen or experienced. I carry it with me months later. I just wish people would speak up more about what they really see down there and topside as well.

Depressing...sorry! Needed to get this off my head.

Holly
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  • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

    Sun, January 6, 2008 - 8:59 AM
    It's good that people like you are traveling and seeing these things; you still give a damn and that's critical.

    I haven't dove in the Philippines myself, but a colleague of mine was telling me there's a big debate about human waste treatment. The natives often think who the hell are these white people telling us to change what we've been doing for years. But of course, that was before they were swarming with tourists. So there is an active debate going on. Still, it's important to write to the tourist boards and tell them why you will never go back nor recommend the place.

    Even in the BVI, of all places, you are not required to have a holding tank. So many of those bareboat charters you see bopping around the islands are dropping their poop wherever. We learned never to swim in the marinas, especially in the morning.

    The fishing line in Key Largo is ridiculous, the charter companies especially should teach responsible practices. My dad has been fishing since well before I was born (we have a photo of me and my first catch at age 2), more often now that he's retired, and he almost never loses his line.

    I would contact Reef Relief, based out of Key West, and voice your concerns. They're a great organization and very proactive: reefrelief.org/
    • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

      Mon, January 7, 2008 - 5:50 PM
      Ummm, don't ever dive in the marinas here either....
      • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

        Thu, January 10, 2008 - 11:06 AM
        We weren't diving in the marinas, just hoping for a morning navy shower, which we learned you don't take until you're out of the anchorages.
        • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

          Thu, January 10, 2008 - 12:24 PM
          Why would people dive in marinas? I have dived under the main pier in Bonaire but that was to clean-up. We pulled out about 5 huge garbage bags of crap in 80minutes. I have to say it was a heavenly dive, shallow, long and tons of juvenile everything. Even so, so much garbage!
          • Unsu...
             

            Re: Disillusionment in Travels

            Sun, January 13, 2008 - 10:31 AM
            Marinas are were you dive to find things that boaters lose over the sides.

            Otherwise, other than commerical diving, not much reason to.
          • Unsu...
             

            Re: Disillusionment in Travels

            Sun, January 13, 2008 - 10:34 AM
            P.S.

            Marina dive is dangerous. There are often a lot of electrical wires in the water, and they can leak current and eletrocute you if you come in contact or too close.

            There are also usually a lot of lines, cables and other entanglement hazards. Plus nails and other jagged things sticking out here and there.

            In low viz marinas, there is also the danger of encountering bull sharks, who may be attracted because people throw food and bait overboard.

            Bull sharks like the brackish water found in marinas in bays and near river deltas.

            I ain't divin' with bull sharks. Anything but bull sharks.
            • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

              Sun, January 13, 2008 - 3:03 PM
              Anything but Bulls? I've heard Maco's and Tiger's are worse, no?
              • Unsu...
                 

                Re: Disillusionment in Travels

                Sun, January 13, 2008 - 7:24 PM
                Bullsharks like low vis, murky environments.

                And in those environments, it is easier for the shark to mistake a human for something else, something more akin to its usual prey.

                In addition, the bullshark is very aggressive.

                I think most sharks do not attack divers in clear water, absent some kind of provocation or unusual circumstance. Most sharks do not recognize humans as prey. But bullsharks willl bite anything, ask questions later.
                • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

                  Mon, January 14, 2008 - 7:04 AM
                  Thanks, good to know. I do know sharks tend to only attack in mistaken identity. Apparently we don't taste very good, too bony. Go figure.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Disillusionment in Travels

                    Mon, January 14, 2008 - 7:02 PM
                    All that neoprene, nylon strapping, rubber hoses and a big aluminum tank are not very tasty either and the darn hoses get caught up in the teeth. Yeah, they like to look at us, watch out of curiosity... maybe to make sure we don't take away any of their food... but most sharks just ignore divers.
                    • Re: Disillusionment in Travels

                      Mon, January 14, 2008 - 8:06 PM
                      In Thailand a huge gray reef shark came right up to my face then move to the side and swam away. I was thrilled! I honestly could have removed my reg, moved about a foot closer and kissed it. I later learned they can be unpredictable albeit curious. Funny the turn this post has taken.

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